Purpose of this Article

Purpose

Listed below are a few requirements/guidelines that apply to all types of tank setups that will house any type of amphibians, whether it be a frog, salamander/newt, or caecilian.

• Soil must be chemical-free, biologically active, and able to maintain its structure and function for a very long time. Substrate with chemical fertilizers, or other chemicals, are detrimental to the health of amphibians, as they will absorb these chemicals through their semi-permeable skin. For substrate ideas, see article 0021 - Substrate Mixtures for the Vivarium. This article describes the do's and don'ts of soil and bog substrates in more detail.
  
  
• Always condition tap water before introduction of amphibians species. Regular tap water contains chemicals and metals that are a certain death sentence to any amphibian (see article 0006 - Water Quality and Amphibians for more information). 
  
  
• Never use 100% deionized, or distilled, water with amphibians. Deionized/distilled waters can disrupt the cellular properties of amphibians, which can be fatal (see article 0006 - Water Quality and Amphibians for more information). Spring and deionized waters are okay to use for some purposes, such as mixing earthen substrates, or spraying certain types of tanks, where the water will pick up ions from the tank materials.
  
  
• Always provide hiding places for amphibians, especially if artificial or natural light is provided. Most amphibians are nocturnal, and will become stressed if they are unable to escape bright lighting. Even diurnal species require hiding places.
  
  
• Always keep temperature and humidity levels in the correct range for any captive species. Extremes of hot or cold will result in the sickness, and most likely the death, of any amphibian. Many species are susceptible to desiccation from inadequate humidity, while others may develop skin problems if too much moisture is present. If these criteria cannot be met, please be responsible and do not keep animals for which a proper environment cannot be provided.
  
  
• Keep up on tank maintenance. Dead food items should be removed regularly, partial water changes and filter maintenance should be performed weekly (depending on the size of tank and number of inhabitants). Water bowls should be refreshed daily.
  
  
• Always provide a secure lid for any amphibian. Treefrogs are notorious for climbing glass and plexiglass, and even hanging upside down from the tops of tanks. Many caudates and terrestrial anurans can climb glass and escape easily through an open top or small hole, where they may fall to the ground and desiccate if not discovered quickly. Aquatic species can leap out of an open tank, and sometimes through small holes in the lid, and so also require a secure lid. Because of their moist skin and environment, some species are especially prone to fungal infections, which a screen lid helps to prevent. Screen lids are recommended for most amphibians because they allow proper ventilation, however, a combination of glass and screen may be necessary for those species that require high humidity levels.
  
  
• Do not mix amphibian species. There are too many reasons to avoid mixing amphibian species for the scope of this article (for more information on species mixing, see article 0007 - Species Mixing: New World Syndrome).

Semi-Aquatic Tank

Semi-Aquatic Species: The Shoreline / Bog Tank
This type of tank can be tailored to suit the needs of mostly aquatic and mostly terrestrial species by adjusting the water/land ratio accordingly. The idea behind this method is to create a more natural environment by dividing the tank into 2 separate areas; one for a natural terrain with soil, live plants, and hiding places, and the other for a water body. On a small-scale, this tank will resemble the shoreline of a natural pond, where the water meets the land. Larger tanks can be made more natural with sloping floors going from shallow to deeper waters, terrestrial plants simulating a wooded area, small logs and rocks, natural mosses, trickling waterfalls, etc. A soil and live plant setup will require ample drainage for the plants, which can be achieved by drilling holes in the bottom of the tank and placing trays under to catch the water, or by using a "layer" method in which excess water is allowed to accumulate on the bottom of the tank in a layer that separates it from the soil. Typically, the tank divider consists of a piece of plexiglas glued to the bottom and sides of the tank with aquarium sealant. The thickness and height of the plexiglas should be determined by the requirements of the intended inhabitants, and the size of the tank. The "shoreline" can be made more realistic by sloping the piece of dividing plexiglas at around 45°, which will also make the transition from water to land easier for the inhabitants. Small pebbles or rocks can be sealed onto the sloped plexiglass to aid the inhabitants in entering and exiting the water area.

Drilling holes in the bottom of the tank for drainage is by far the most sanitary and least-maintenance requiring method, however, the "layer" method is more commonly used due to the abundance and affordability of tempered-glass tanks, which cannot be drilled. The holes in the bottom of the tank allow for complete saturation of the land area without the risk of stagnant water accumulating under the soil, which makes simulating a rainy season easier because more water can be applied. If housing fossorial (burrowing) species, make sure the drilled holes will not allow the inhabitants to escape, or become stuck trying to squeeze through the holes.

The layer method usually consists of a few inches of Terra-Lite or other clay aggregate, or rinsed gravel underneath the soil area. This layer creates a space for excess water to accumulate, where it can be removed when needed (by uprooting and replacing the soil area in the tank). With this method, it is important to keep from over-watering the tank, as the water may accumulate in large amounts, where it will become saturated with ammonia and leached back up to the surface through the soil. Regular saturation of the tank must be avoided; daily spraying of pre-moistened soil should suffice, and should not cause large amounts of water to accumulate on the bottom. Experienced keepers may find that they do not need this extra layer, as long as the amount of tank watering is kept in check.

The substrate used in the vivarium is a very important element, and can make or break the entire system. It is crucial to create a substrate that is biologically active, and can support the physical activities exuded on it by the inhabitants, including jumping, hopping, walking, burrowing, etc. For substrate ideas, see article 0021 - Substrate Mixtures for the Vivarium.

An alternative to the sectioned off tank described above is the bog/marsh tank. This type consists of a healthy bog substrate that slopes up out of the water into a wet land area. The substrate is very important in this type of tank, as it must be capable of retaining oxygen to prevent the proliferation of anaerobic bacteria. The land area can be covered in small, mossy pebble rocks, or left as a marshy embankment. In article 0021 - Substrate Mixtures for the Vivarium, a recipe for a bog substrate is provided. It should be noted that this type is typically a very wet environment, and may not be proper for those semi-aquatic species that prefer a dryer land area. For example, Tylototriton shanjing or Neurergus strauchii. This type of tank can be used successfully with marsh and tropical species, such as Mantella sp., Rana sp., and Amphiuma sp. (in very large tanks). Of course, this type of tank cannot have holes drilled into the bottom, as it does not require drainage.

Simple example of the Shoreline Tank. The water/land ratio, and the depth of water required will vary from species to species. The size of the land and water areas can be adjusted according to placement of the plexiglas divider.

Semi-Aquatic Species: Submerged Rock Tank
This type of tank is recommended for mostly aquatic species (those that seldom exit the water area, but still require a refuge on land), and consists of a large water body with a few, to several objects protruding out of the water. These protuberances will serve as the land area. Objects such as clean rocks or pieces of driftwood are typically used. Java moss can easily be grown on the tops of the rocks, which is not only attractive, but can serve as a hiding place for smaller species. If dormancy is to be induced for breeding purposes, rocks and driftwood can still be used with most species, just make sure there are some caves, crevices, cracks, or other small hiding places within the rocks or driftwood for the inhabitants to reside. Although not limited to, this type of tank is typically used with newts of the genera Cynops, Notophthalmus, Pleurodeles, Pachytriton, and Paramesotriton, at varying water depths. This type of tank is also useful for seasonal use, for example, when primarily terrestrial species enter breeding mode and need to be moved to an aquatic-type environment. 

Simple example of the Submerged Rock Tank. The tip of the rock cave protrudes from the water and serves as the land area.

20 Gallon (tall) Semi-Aquatic Tank: Housing a small colony of Cynops orientalis. Plants consist of Java moss (Vesicularia dubyana), Elodea (Anacharis, Elodea spp.), Duckweed (Lemna minor) and Lilaeopsis (Lilaeopsis novaezelandiae). The stacked rocks to the right, covered in java moss, serve as the land area, but also provides underwater caves, where the newts hide.

Terrestrial & Arboreal Tanks

Terrestrial & Arboreal Species: The Natural Tank
This type of tank is intended for those species that either do not enter bodies of water, or only enter bodies of water for soaking purposes. The idea is to create a natural environment with moist soil, live plants, and plenty of hiding places, with or without a shallow water area. A soil and live plant setup will require ample drainage for the plants, which can be achieved by drilling holes in the bottom of the tank and placing trays under to catch the water, or by using a "layer" method in which excess water is allowed to accumulate on the bottom of the tank in a layer that separates it from the soil.

Drilling holes in the bottom of the tank for drainage is by far the most sanitary and least-maintenance requiring method, however, the "layer" method is more commonly used due to the abundance and affordability of tempered-glass tanks, which cannot be drilled. The holes in the bottom of the tank allow for complete saturation of the land area without the risk of stagnant water accumulating under the soil, which makes simulating a rainy season easier because more water can be applied. If housing fossorial (burrowing) species, make sure the drilled holes will not allow the inhabitants to escape, or become stuck trying to squeeze through the holes.

The layer method usually consists of a few inches of Terra-Lite or other clay aggregate, or rinsed gravel underneath the soil area. This layer creates a space for excess water to accumulate, where it can be removed when needed (by uprooting and replacing the soil area in the tank). With this method, it is important to keep from over-watering the tank, as the water may accumulate in large amounts, where it will become saturated with ammonia and leached back up to the surface through the soil. Regular saturation of the tank must be avoided; daily spraying of pre-moistened soil should suffice, and should not cause large amounts of water to accumulate on the bottom. Experienced keepers may find that they do not need this extra layer, as long as the amount of tank watering is kept in check.

The substrate used in the vivarium is a very important element, and can make or break the entire system. It is crucial to create a substrate that is biologically active, and can support the physical activities exuded on it by the inhabitants, including jumping, hopping, walking, burrowing, etc. For substrate ideas, see article 0021 - Substrate Mixtures for the Vivarium.

As mentioned before, a shallow water bowl can be included in terrestrial type setups for soaking purposes, provided the inhabitants can exit if they were to enter, and are able to hold their heads above the surface of the water. A water bowl is not required with many species, and can actually cause harm if left for long periods of time, where harmful bacteria can develop. Water bowls are generally only for soaking species, such as treefrogs, and should be refreshed daily with clean water. 

Simple example of the Natural Tank for terrestrial/fossorial species, with a small water bowl for soaking purposes. The amount of tank space required, and the size and depth of the water bowl required will vary from species to species. Fully terrestrial species, such as many Plethodontid salamanders, do not require a soaking bowl, while some terrestrial and arboreal frogs may. Also, a water bowl is typically not sufficient enough for breeding purposes for amphibians. For those terrestrial species that require water for egg/larvae deposition, see the semi-aquatic section above.

Simple example of the Natural Tank for arboreal amphibian species, with a small water area. The amount of tank space required and the size and depth of the water required will vary from species to species.

Aquatic Tank

Aquatic Species: Simple Aquatic Tank
A typical aquatic setup consists of an inch to four inches of rinsed gravel rocks as substrate, live aquatic plants, a suitable filter, artificial lighting, and a few hiding places. The water level will vary for different species, and can be anywhere from a few inches to a few meters. It is necessary to provide a lid for aquatic species as well, as many are capable of leaping out of the tank.

Simple example of an Aquatic Tank. If the tank is densely planted, caves and such hiding places can be omitted, as the plants will provide the necessary hiding places. Water level and tank size will vary for different species.

55 Gallon Aquatic Tank: Housed a batch of Notophthalmus viridescens viridescens larvae until metamorphosis.

Larvae Tanks

The transition from larvae to juvenile amphibian is a traumatic one that includes drastic physical changes; the skin becomes more granulous, the eyes change to adapt to seeing in clear atmospheric air, rather than through murky waters, the legs become stronger to support the body, and the youngsters must learn to capture food on land. New morphs will often re-enter the water many times before becoming fully acclimated to their new terrestrial physiology and environment. To avoid unnecessary stress during metamorphosis, it is recommended to provide a few centimeters of water for new morphs for the first week or two after metamorphosis. The water area must be easy to exit, for new morphs are tiny and delicate, and many run the risk of drowning. This 'transition tank' can consist of a flat rock, java moss, elodea, or other aquatic plants sitting in a few centimeters of water in such a manner that the rock or plants serve as small land refuges. As is common with amphibians, there are many exceptions to the rules of rearing young. Most species are oviparous, producing external eggs on land or in aquatic bodies. Others are ovoviviparous, giving birth to advanced larvae, after passing the egg stage within in the mother, while others are viviparous, producing miniature adults and passing the entire egg stage internally (for example, some subspecies of Salamandra salamandra). The method required for rearing young depends on the exact species in question. See article 0014 - Introduction to the Lifecycle of Newts for information on larvae and juvenile caudates, and metamorphosing amphibians.    

Earthen substrates must be biologically active, and capable of withstanding the physical activities exuded by the inhabitants. Sterile soil mixtures often cause serious health problems to terrestrial species, as they do not allow for quick breakdown of organic materials, such as shed skin, feces, and uneaten foods. Sterile environments also can permit harmful pathogens to flourish, as there is no beneficial bacteria to combat such invaders. For substrate ideas and instructions, see article 0021 - Substrate Mixtures for the Vivarium.

Other substrates, including gravel, paper towels, and dead mosses are not recommended in most cases because they are not natural, may be too acidic, or may inhibit burrowing species. However, moist soil may not be the ideal substrate in every situation. Moistened, chemical-free paper towels are often used as a substrate with new morphs because an obstacle-free environment can be provided with this type of substrate, which can aid in food capture. Especially small morphs may experience problems with soil clumping up around the limbs and body, in which case a paper towel tank would also be the preferred choice. For some captive-raised individuals, especially newts, bleach-free paper towels may be the superior choice for terrestrial substrate. Bleach-free paper towel substrate must be replaced often (every few days or so) to ensure the health of the inhabitants. Food items quickly rot and become toxic on paper toweling because it is a sterile environment, lacking the microbes found in natural soil to help break down organic matter. Because paper towels provide such a sterile environment, they also allow any harmful pathogens found on the newts to multiply at an exponential rate, like in a petri dish, which is another reason the substrate must be replaced often. It is also necessary to ensure the paper towels are always adequately moist, as paper towels are capable of absorbing moisture from the inhabitants as they begin to dry out, which could lead to desiccation. Seventh generation brand natural (brown) recycled paper towels can be used for such purposes, and are readily available at many drugstores in the US, or online from http://www.drugstore.com. It may also be necessary to add a few hiding spots, such as rock or wood caves, clumps of java moss, etc. to break up the drab landscape of a paper towel tank.  

Most youngsters can also be raised terrestrially on pillow moss or sheet moss substrate. These are live mosses that grow above soil, or in a few centimeters of water. Live pillow mosses are acceptable to use with most amphibians, and can be grown alone on top of a layer of soil, or in a few centimeters of water. Pillow moss can also be used in conjunction with soil, which creates a more natural environment with variable terrain.

Aquatic Substrate, the Aquarium Floor:
For semi-aquatic and aquatic tanks,  the water area can have a one to four inch layer of rinsed gravel rocks as substrate, coarse sand, or a simple bare bottom. Another consideration to think about when constructing a tank is that many larger species, such as Ambystoma mexicanum (the Axolotl), are notorious for swallowing bite-sized pebbles when feeding. Because of this, larger rocks may be necessary as a substrate. Most amphibians can pass the occasional small pebble, with some difficulty. However this is obviously not a healthy habit to allow to occur on a regular basis, and could eventually damage the animals internal constructs to the point of death. So, if pebbles are being consumed, the substrate should be changed to larger particles that cannot be ingested by the inhabitants, or coarse sand. Aquatic tanks must always be cycled before introducing amphibians (see article 0006 - Water Quality and Amphibians, and article 0009 - Introduction to the Nitrogen Cycle for more information about aquatic tanks). 

Bare bottom tanks can be used as well, but keep in mind that they can inhibit the nitrogen cycle if adequate biological filtration is not provided. For bare bottom tanks, it is recommended to use a good biological filter to provide a surface area for beneficial bacteria to accumulate. The addition of other materials, such as a small portion of gravel or some type of porous material, will also provide an area for bacteria to reside. BioMAX Biological Filter Media is a porous media for canister type biological filters. This product, or similar products, can be put into a mesh bag and placed within a bare-bottom tank to provide a place for beneficial bacteria to develop. Regular removal of waste (siphoning/vacuuming) is required to avoid ammonia and nitrite spikes. It is a fallacy that bare bottom tanks are bacteria-free. Bacteria will develop in the tank, on the sides and bottom, but at a much slower rate than tanks with substrates. Bare bottom tanks are recommended for larval amphibians because they make feeding less difficult for the young, and are easier to clean.

 Water Chemistry

For aquatic and semi-aquatic tanks, regular tap water treated with a water conditioner, spring water (in some cases), or clean pond water can be used. Most tap water contains toxic chemicals, such as chlorine, and chloramines, which are a certain death sentence to any amphibian, and therefore must be neutralized prior to use. Water conditioners can be purchased in the freshwater fish department of any pet store (Prime or Amquell work well). 

Never use distilled, de-ionized, or reverse osmosis water alone with amphibians. These types of water are void of any of the natural salts and other compounds found in freshwater, and essentially dilute the mineral and enzyme concentration present in amphibian skin, resulting in health problems and potentially death. Of course, de-ionized water does accumulate ions when exposed to the atmosphere, but not a significant amount to bring the pH even close to 7.0 (neutral). De-ionized water exposed to the atmosphere for a few minutes typically has a highly acidic pH around 5.6, maybe slightly less acidic when exposed to terrain or other substances (as in spraying the tank with de-ionized water). So, the accumulation of ions in de-ionized water after exposure to the atmosphere is not a safe bet. These types of water can, however, be used in a mixture with conditioned tap water to soften hard water, and in the process lower high pH levels. De-ionized water is also often used to spray very wet tanks, such as those for Dendrobates, and may be required in some misting systems. 

Because of its origin, spring water is usually soft, and so should not be used alone with most amphibian species, but, like de-ionized water, can be used in conjunction with conditioned tap water to lower the pH of very hard water, or for spraying certain types of tanks. Spring water is still treated to remove any harmful substances before human consumption, but in order to be defined as spring water, it must retain the same chemical composition and quality as the natural water source. In other words, spring water does not possess the added chemicals present in tap water, but it still contains the minerals and salts that are removed from de-ionized water.

There are some risks when using pond water, as it can introduce harmful pathogens and microbes. However, pond water can prove to be an invaluable substance when raising tiny larvae, as it introduces a wealth of edible microbes. With larvae, pond water should also be supplemented with the addition of live foods, such as daphnia, scuds, copepods, and chopped tubifex worms. Like de-ionized and spring waters, pond water is usually used in conjunction with conditioned tap water. 

See article 0006 - Water Quality and Amphibians, and article 0009 - Introduction to the Nitrogen Cycle for more information about proper water chemistry.

• Artificial Lighting
  The most common forms of artificial light used in captive environments are incandescent bulbs, and fluorescent bulbs. Incandescent bulbs radiate large amounts of heat, and can actually burn the leaves of plants and the skin of amphibians. Incandescent bulbs are better suited for use with desert-type reptiles, than amphibians. With amphibians, incandescent bulbs should be used with caution, and should never be used with species requiring less-than-tropical temperatures. Also, make sure the inhabitants can hide from the light, and will not come into direct contact with a bare bulb or any hot surface near the bulb. Incandescent bulbs should be kept a safe distance from the tank, typically around 12 inches above, to prevent the ambient heat from burning plant leaves and amphibian skin. Typically, incandescent bulbs are only used with tropical species requiring temperatures over 75°F.
  
  Fluorescent bulbs do not radiate nearly as much heat as incandescent bulbs, and will not burn holes into plant leaves or amphibian skin. However, low-light plants will not appreciate fluorescent lighting, and amphibians should always be provided dark hiding places to escape the light. If lighting is necessary, only fluorescent bulbs should be used with temperate-habitat species, such as most caudates. Never use incandescent bulbs, heat lamps, or heat bulbs with temperate-habitat species. For tropical and warm-weather species, fluorescent bulbs are often used in conjunction with a ceramic heat lamp because they are excellent for plant growth (for those species requiring light), and safer for the inhabitants. 
  
  
• Temperature Regulation and Modification
  Homeotherms, such as mammals, are capable of regulating their body temperature internally, to a degree, via their fast metabolisms. Amphibians are poikilotherms, meaning they have very limited means of regulating their body temperature internally, and rely mainly on the external environment for temperature-control. This explains why reptiles often bask in the sun, and why some salamanders are always found in cold, damp areas. This is also why it's extremely crucial to provide the proper temperature range for captive amphibians. Extremes of hot or cold may result in stress, sickness, bacterial infections, kidney damage, other internal damage, and ultimately the death of any amphibian. There are many mechanisms available to manipulate the temperature of captive environments, including water chillers, aquatic heaters, ceramic heat lamps, small fans, etc. The need to use such devices will vary according to location, climate, and the species in question.
  
  
  Heating
  There are several mechanisms available to raise the temperature of a captive environment. For terrestrial and arboreal amphibians requiring warm temperatures, a ceramic heat lamp may be necessary to attain the proper temperature range. Ceramic heat lamps screw into a typical heat lamp fixture, but do not radiate light, and will not burn plants (if kept at the proper distance). These types can be used in conjunction with a fluorescent lamp during the day if lighting is necessary. As with incandescent bulbs, make sure the inhabitants will not come into contact with the ceramic heat lamp or lamp fixture; the fixture should be suspended outside the tank, at least 12 inches above the lid. Ceramic heat lamps are typically used with tropical species, or those requiring temperatures above 75°F. 
  
  For tropical and warm-weather species, heat bulbs can be used. As with incandescent bulbs and ceramic heat lamps, heat bulbs should be used with caution, as they can burn amphibian and plant skin. If heat bulbs are used, make sure that the inhabitants will not come into contact with a bare bulb or any other hot surfaces; the bulb should be suspended outside the tank, at least 12 inches above the lid.
  
  For warm-water aquatics, water heaters can be used. Water heaters come in a variety of brands and wattages, and are typically used with tropical species that inhabit warm waters, tropical-type larvae, or when a slight temperature rise is needed to simulate natural seasons for breeding purposes. In temperate zones, water heaters are usually not necessary with most amphibian species, however there are some exceptions. 
  
  Cooling
  Cool-habitat species sometimes require the use of an artificial cooling system during hot seasons, or on unusually hot days. In hot regions, where the temps are consistently above the required temps of the species in question, an air conditioner and/or water chiller may be necessary. Even cooler climate locations experience unusually hot days or spells, for which ice cubes or ice packs can be used to temporarily cool the environment of the captives. Cooling seems to be rather difficult for some keepers due to the expense of cooling products, so if it is not possible to keep a cool-habitat species in the desired temperature range, please be responsible and do not keep such species. 
  
  Small, single room air conditioners can be purchased for under $100, up to a few hundred dollars. In hot regions, and air conditioner is a priceless investment toward the health of any cool-habitat species. Air conditioners are probably the most successful means of temperature control when cooling is necessary.
  
  For aquatics and semi-aquatics, a water chiller may be a useful investment. Water chillers are typically expensive, and made for very large aquariums (200+ gallons). However, there are a few brands made for small aquariums. Coolworks IceProbe is the latest of such inventions, and retails for around $90-$120, depending on where you shop. The only draw back to the IceProbe is that it requires a hole be cut in the side of the aquarium, where the chiller will be placed. Using thermoelectric technology (conversion of electricity into cooling energy), the IceProbe can lower the temperature of water 6°F-8°F lower than the room air temperature. Another chiller for small aquariums is the MicroChiller, which retails around $140-$150, and hangs off the back of the tank. The MicroChiller is designed for 10 gallon tanks or smaller, and will cool the water 4-6°F. Some other brands are Thermoelectric Chillers ($299-$399), Fritz Teclima Chillers ($395-$2100), AquaLogic Chillers ($665-$1179), and Universal Marine Chillers ($650-$1200). A search on the internet for 'Aquarium Chiller' will produce numerous brands and prices.
  
  For temporary cooling, i.e. on unusually hot days or spells, ice cubes, ice blocks, or ice packs can be added to the water (ice should be made with conditioned water). This is not an efficient or effective method to consistently cool the environment in warm regions, and could cause shock to the inhabitants if used often. For such locations, an air conditioner should be used to cool the room to the proper temperatures. 

  Other cooling methods include moving tanks to a cooler room, such as a basement or closet during hot seasons, moving tanks to the floor where it is cooler, moving tanks away from windows, turning off lighting fixtures, spraying tank with cold water, etc. 

  Electrical devices, such as fans may not be as effective as expected when trying to cool a tank in warm weather. Fans don't necessary cool the air at all, but circulate it. Fans also have motors that become hot and add to the already heated air. Also, fans should not be used to cool terrestrial habitats, as they can dry the top soil out rapidly, and cause desiccation quickly. 
  
  

• Humidity:
  All amphibians need to maintain a certain degree of moisture. The level of humidity required could be anywhere from 10%-90%, depending on the species in question, although some species are desert-dwellers. Humidity requirements are directed at terrestrial species and those semi-aquatic species that spend a considerable amount of time on land. The humidity level required will vary for different species, and can be accomplished by regular spraying of the tank with conditioned water. For species requiring 80% humidity and higher, such as Dendrobates and some tropical treefrogs, or in larger tanks, a misting system and timer may be more advantageous and effective than a simple spray bottle. Some keepers may want to include a small, shallow water bowl to be used as a desiccation precaution, such that if the tank is not humid enough, or becomes too dry, the inhabitants can enter the water.

Tank Maintenance